Key Lanyards for Teacher or Nurse

 

PicMonkey Collage 321

Key Lanyards for Teacher or Nurse

 

Materials:

H Hook

Preferred Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Measuring tape (to check gauge)

Key Chain Ring

Key Clip

Pearl for flower center if desired

 

Skill level: Beginner

Gauge:

With H hook:

2’’ x 2’’ square = 8hdc by 5 rows

 

 

A Note about Gauge: For those of you who do not understand how gauge works, or are looking to learn more on the subject, I have written a very helpful blog on gauge that has proved helpful when trying to figure out how big/small of a hook/yarn to use. If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can.  http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/05/matching-gauge-and-why-it-is-so-important/

 

A Note about Technique (The Golden Loop Method): This is not just for amigurumi items; it will help in ALL areas where crochet is involved. (Although, it helps most with amigurumi because of the nature of tight stitching.) I know I often hear of people having trouble “making their stitches tight enough” or they frequently have problems matching gauge (even if their items turn out okay on sizing, it doesn’t necessarily mean there isn’t improvement to be made.) I too had many problems when learning to create amigurumi objects when I first started out. I have written a helpful blog that should help to pinpoint the areas that need improvement so that you, too, can create beautiful amigurumi items. There is ALWAYS room for improvements to be made, no matter how long you have been crocheting. Later, you will notice that all items are improved by using this easy method! If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can. http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/04/amigurimi-technique-that-will-always-work-and-will-change-the-way-you-crochet-forever/

 

Abbreviations:                     (NOTE THAT NOT ALL ABBREVIATIONS WILL BE USED IN THIS PATTERN)

 

MC – Magic Circle                            For a tutorial on the magic circle, visit my blog at the following link:

http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/magic-circle-tutorial/

CH – Chain

ST; STS – Stitch or stitches

SC – Single Crochet

SC2TOG – Single Crochet 2 together

HDC – Half Double Crochet

HDC2TOG – Half Double Crochet 2 together

DC – Double Crochet

DC2TOG- Double Crochet 2 together

TR – Treble Crochet

SLST – Slip Stitch

FO – Fasten Off

X after a number = number of stitches to work in after current stitch (ex: sc 2X = sc in next two stitches)

 

Tips:  Ch 1, Ch 2, or Ch 3 turning chain at the beginning of the round does not count as first stitch. First stitch in the round will be in the same stitch as the turning chain.

 

 

PICK UP THIRD LOOPS OF HDC FOR ENTIRE PATTERN.

(This makes the lanyard more sturdy, so that it can hold more weight.

You may also just do a regular hdc if you feel more comfortable doing that and it will work.)

 

If you are unsure how to pick up 3rd loops in hdc, see this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEDVgAhhtpU

 

Neck Length:

Insert hook and yarn into circle of key chain ring. 3sc in circle, turn

 

Row 1-100:                        Ch 1, hdc in each across, turn (3)

 

FO and fold like picture and then sew to back of first row.

 

You may also sl st to attach back across last row if you don’t want to finish off.

 

Whichever you decide to do, make sure it is attached to through the 1st row of sc.

This was written for an average sized woman. (Should fit comfortably around a woman’s neck who has a 22 inch head) You may want to add more rows for larger women or men. Remember, it must fit over their head and you want it not to be tight around the neck. It is better to be longer than too short!

 

Wrist Length:

Insert hook and yarn into circle of key chain ring. 3sc in circle, turn

 

Row 1-30:                          Ch 1, hdc in each across, turn (3)

 

FO and fold like picture and then sew to back of first row.

 

You may also sl st to attach back across last row if you don’t want to finish off.

 

Whichever you decide to do, make sure it is attached to through the 1st row of sc.

 

This was written for an average sized woman. (Should fit comfortably around a woman’s wrist who has a 7 inch wrist) You may want to add more rows for larger women or men. Remember, it must fit over their hand and you want it not to be tight around the wrist. It is better to be longer than too short!

 

Contrasting edging:

Sl st in circle with contrasting color, then sl st into side of lanyard and sc around

(Do this on both sides of lanyard)

 

 

Large Flower for neck lanyard:

With light color

Round 1:             6sc in mc, join (6)

Color change to dark contrasting color in join

Round 2:             Ch 1, (sc, ch2), RPT () around, join to first sc (6 ch2 sps)

Sl st into next ch 2 sp

Round 3:             (Ch2, 3dc, ch2, sl st into next ch 2 sp), RPT () around (6 petals)

 

Sew pearl to center and attach to lanyard.

 

 

Small Flower for wrist lanyard:

With light color

Round 1:             5sc in mc, join (5)

Color change to dark contrasting color in join

Round 2:             Ch 1, (sc, ch1), RPT () around, join to first sc (5 ch1 sps)

Sl st into next ch 2 sp

Round 3:             (Ch1, 2dc, ch1, sl st into same ch 1 sp, sl st into next ch 1 sp), RPT () around

(5 petals)

 

Sew pearl to center and attach to lanyard.

 

 

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Simple Charity Baby Hat

 

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Simple Charity Baby Hat

 

Materials:

I Hook

Preferred Yarn: Hobby Lobby I love this yarn!

 

(I have also used Caron Simply Soft with an I hook to meet gauge. I find that softer yarns are better suited for charity donations as they are more complimentary to soft skin types like babies, but I have met gauge with Red Heart Super Saver and Caron Super Saver with an H hook as well)

 

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Measuring tape (to check gauge)

 

Skill level: Beginner

Gauge:

With I hook:

2’’ x 2’’ square = 8 hdc x 5 rows

 

 

A Note about Gauge: For those of you who do not understand how gauge works, or are looking to learn more on the subject, I have written a very helpful blog on gauge that has proved helpful when trying to figure out how big/small of a hook/yarn to use. If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can.  http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/05/matching-gauge-and-why-it-is-so-important/

 

A Note about Technique (The Golden Loop Method): This is not just for amigurumi items; it will help in ALL areas where crochet is involved. (Although, it helps most with amigurumi because of the nature of tight stitching.) I know I often hear of people having trouble “making their stitches tight enough” or they frequently have problems matching gauge (even if their items turn out okay on sizing, it doesn’t necessarily mean there isn’t improvement to be made.) I too had many problems when learning to create amigurumi objects when I first started out. I have written a helpful blog that should help to pinpoint the areas that need improvement so that you, too, can create beautiful amigurumi items. There is ALWAYS room for improvements to be made, no matter how long you have been crocheting. Later, you will notice that all items are improved by using this easy method! If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can. http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/04/amigurimi-technique-that-will-always-work-and-will-change-the-way-you-crochet-forever/

 

Abbreviations:                     (NOTE THAT NOT ALL ABBREVIATIONS WILL BE USED IN THIS PATTERN)

 

MC – Magic Circle                            For a tutorial on the magic circle, visit my blog at the following link:

http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/magic-circle-tutorial/

CH – Chain

ST; STS – Stitch or stitches

SC – Single Crochet

SC2TOG – Single Crochet 2 together

HDC – Half Double Crochet

HDC2TOG – Half Double Crochet 2 together

DC – Double Crochet

DC2TOG- Double Crochet 2 together

TR – Treble Crochet

SLST – Slip Stitch

FO – Fasten Off

X after a number = number of stitches to work in after current stitch (ex: sc 2X = sc in next two stitches)

 

Tips:  Ch 1, Ch 2, or Ch 3 turning chain at the beginning of the round does not count as first stitch. First stitch in the round will be in the same stitch as the turning chain.

 

Age Head Circumference Diameter Height
Newborn 11.5 – 13 inches 3 – 4 inches 5 inches
0-3 Months 13 – 15 inches 4.5 – 5 inches 5 – 5.5 inches

 

Hat Start:

With I Hook for ILTY or CSS (Or h hook for Red Heart or Caron Super Saver)

 

Round 1:                                Ch 1, 9 hdc in mc, join to top of first hdc (9)

Round 2:                                Ch 1, (2 hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (18)

Round 3:                                Ch 1, (hdc, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (27)

Round 4:                                Ch 1, (hdc 2X, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (36)

 

SEE DESIRED SIZE BELOW

 

(Please take a look at sizing chart above to determine what size to make.)

 

NB/0-3 months:

Round 5:                                Ch 1, hdc in each st around, join to top of first hdc (36)

 

FOR A FLUSH HAT WITH NO FOLDED BRIM AT THE BOTTOM:

NB: Repeat Round 5 until hat reaches 5 inches from top to bottom and FO. (approximately 15 rounds)

0-3 Months: Repeat Round 5 until hat reaches 5.5 from top to bottom and FO. (approximately 17 rounds)

 

FOR A HAT WITH A FOLDED BRIM AT THE BOTTOM:  (Like Pictured)

NB: Repeat Round 5 until hat reaches 5.5 inches from top to bottom and FO. (approximately 17 rounds)

0-3 Months: Repeat Round 5 until hat reaches 6 from top to bottom and FO. (approximately 19 rounds)

 

Sc around one round.

If hat has folded brim, fold up the sc round and the last 2 rounds of hdc.

You can sew this to the hat or leave it be. It should stay put pretty well.

 

Bow:

Ch 20, join.

Rounds 1-4:                          Ch 1, hdc around, Join (20)

For center ring:                    Ch 7 around center of Bow Center and join. Sew to hat.

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First Live Video – Package Unveiling 5/27/16

 

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Today was a special day. I got a message from my Dad’s favorite aunt on Facebook the other day. I was excited to talk to her anyway because I never really have, and she is quite special to my father. But she offered me some of her mother’s crocheted items! I was so excited to open it, but I decided to wait and share this special moment with my followers and fans. So this is the unveiling of my GREAT AUNT’S work. When I pass these on to my daughter, they will be her GREAT GREAT AUNT’S work, and HER baby’s GREAT GREAT GREAT AUNT’S work. So that’s pretty unique to have a generational line of crocheters like that and I was proud to share them with you guys.

She never followed a pattern, so these were of her own making. I want to pick them apart and share the pattern with you guys because they are just beautiful. When I have that available you’ll know!

WATCH LIVE VIDEO HERE!

Also, I shared my intentions on having a father’s day giveaway to honor our men crocheters (really because I felt bad about leaving them out since I talk so much about empowering women through crochet). I know of a few who are always there to support us and I feel like they should be honored as well for father’s day because I feel like maybe we forget them or they don’t get included sometimes!

If you’ve got something crocheted by a family member or you have a note to share about someone who taught you, comment and show me! I’d love to see their work or your work! That’s always fun. As always, thanks for tuning in and thanks for watching and your continued support!

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Thread Bookmark, Ornament or Motif

 

PicMonkey Collage1fsd

Thread Cross Bookmark, Ornament or Motif

Materials:

2.25mm Hook

Preferred Yarn: Aunt Lydia’s cotton size 10 thread

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Measuring tape (to check gauge)

 

Skill level: Beginner

1 Craft Yarn Council - Beginner Definition

 

Gauge:

With 2.25mm hook:

1’’ x 1’’ square = 8dc x 3.5 rows

 

 

A Note about Gauge: For those of you who do not understand how gauge works, or are looking to learn more on the subject, I have written a very helpful blog on gauge that has proved helpful when trying to figure out how big/small of a hook/yarn to use. If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can.  http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/05/matching-gauge-and-why-it-is-so-important/

 

A Note about Technique (The Golden Loop Method): This is not just for amigurumi items; it will help in ALL areas where crochet is involved. (Although, it helps most with amigurumi because of the nature of tight stitching.) I know I often hear of people having trouble “making their stitches tight enough” or they frequently have problems matching gauge (even if their items turn out okay on sizing, it doesn’t necessarily mean there isn’t improvement to be made.) I too had many problems when learning to create amigurumi objects when I first started out. I have written a helpful blog that should help to pinpoint the areas that need improvement so that you, too, can create beautiful amigurumi items. There is ALWAYS room for improvements to be made, no matter how long you have been crocheting. Later, you will notice that all items are improved by using this easy method! If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can. http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/04/amigurimi-technique-that-will-always-work-and-will-change-the-way-you-crochet-forever/

 

Abbreviations:                     (NOTE THAT NOT ALL ABBREVIATIONS WILL BE USED IN THIS PATTERN)

 

MC – Magic Circle                            For a tutorial on the magic circle, visit my blog at the following link:

http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/magic-circle-tutorial/

CH – Chain

ST; STS – Stitch or stitches

SC – Single Crochet

SC2TOG – Single Crochet 2 together

HDC – Half Double Crochet

HDC2TOG – Half Double Crochet 2 together

DC – Double Crochet

DC2TOG- Double Crochet 2 together

TR – Treble Crochet

SLST – Slip Stitch

FO – Fasten Off

X after a number = number of stitches to work in after current stitch (ex: sc 2X = sc in next two stitches)

Mod Dc: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6cN2uk94-k

 

Tips:  Ch 1, Ch 2, or Ch 3 turning chain at the beginning of the round does not count as first stitch. First stitch in the round will be in the same stitch as the turning chain.

 

NOTES: You may ch2 and dc for the first st in each row/section OR you can utilize a modified dc in place of the ch2 dc. Modified dc is easy once you get the hang of it. Try it out! It gives a more finished look. If you can’t get the hang of it or just don’t want to, ch2 and dc will work just fine!

 

Shell  definition – 2dc, ch 2, 2dc

 


Center:

Round 1:              In Magic Circle – Ch 2, Shell 4x around, join (4 shells)

                                   Sl st to ch 2 sp

Top leg of cross:

Row 1:                  Ch 2, shell, turn (1 shell)

                                      Sl st to ch 2 sp

Row 2:                  Rpt 1

Row 3:                  Rpt 1

FO

 

Left leg of cross:

Sl st in at left shell of round 1 (ch1 if using modified dc)

Rpt all 3 rows of top leg

 

Right leg of cross:

Sl st in at right shell of round 1 (ch1 if using modified dc)

Rpt all 3 rows of top leg

 

Bottom leg of cross:

Sl st in at bottom shell of round 1 (ch1 if using modified dc)

Rpt all 3 rows of top leg

Row 4:                  Rpt 1 (1 shell)

Row 5:                  Rpt 1 (1 shell)

FO

Braided Tassel:

Hold thread in left hand, pull thread and measure to the crook of your elbow, do this twice. (So you should have a piece of thread the length of two of your forearms) Cut 6 strands of thread this length. Fold in half and slip knot at center through the bottom shell of the cross. Then separate 3 sections 4 strands thick and braid to end. Leave 2 inches at the end before knotting it.

 

Beading: (Optional)

If you choose to add beads to your project, as tester Suzanne Boren has in the photo below, then before starting to crochet, you will need to thread with a needle onto your thread before you crochet with it, 14 beads in the color of your choosing. At each chain 2 space, crochet 1 chain, pull up the next bead on your line and then chain again to secure it. Then continue on with the pattern as directed.

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For a more detailed photo walkthrough see below

number 1 number 2number 3

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Spring Fever Crochet Pattern Round-up

 

It’s spring fever. That is what the name of it is. And when you’ve got it,

you want —oh, you don’t quite know what it is you do want,

but it just fairly makes your heart ache, you want it so! ~Mark Twain


This round up will have you fashionable from head to toe and even

adorn your home with goodies and keep your kiddos playing!

Scroll down to see what we mean!


Hair Accessories

Bow tie/Hair bow from As U Wish Crafts

On the Petals of Spring hair accessory from Salter’s Stitches
Get a discount on Salter’s Stitches items!

Free Crochet Star Flower Headband Pattern

All My Heart Headband by Articles of a Domestic Goddess


Jewelry

Flowers and Stars Necklace and Earrings by Salter’s Stitches

Get a discount on Salter’s Stitches items!

Bold Bohemian Earrings by Mamta Motiyani

Loom Daisy Flower by Mamta Motiyani

Free Colorful Crochet Bangles Pattern

Quick Little Bracelet by Articles of a Domestic Goddess


Hats

Bonnie Bell Sunhat by Two Brothers Blankets Crochet

Pretty Petals Sunhat by Articles of a Domestic Goddess

Darling Daphne Cloche by Sonya Blackstone

Peacock Flapper Cloche by Articles of a Domestic Goddess

 

Stacked Shells Baby Sunhat by The Lavender Chair

 


Shrugs and Shawls

Snuggle Shrug by Salter’s Stitches

Get a discount on Salter’s Stitches items!

Solomon’s Knot Love Shawl by Articles of a Domestic Goddess

K’ute Shrug by Salter’s Stitches

Get a discount on Salter’s Stitches items!

Berry Bubblegum Fling

 


Blouses and Spring Sweaters

Spring Breeze Sweater by Sonya Blackstone

Primrose Blouse by Two Brother’s Blankets

Lovely Lace Sweater by Sonya Blackstone

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/spring-breeze-sweater-blouse

Get your copy of the Spring Breeze Sweater Blouse ‪#‎crochet‬ pattern for 50% off using coupon code “Update” now through Sunday, April 10th!

Sonrisa Empire Waist Top


Tanks and Tops

Little Country Girl Tank by Sonya Blackstone

Mermaid Bikini Top with Matching Headband by Articles of a Domestic Goddess


 Skirts

Mallory Skirt by Sonya Blackstone


Home Decor

Lace Mandala Cushion Pillow by Mamta Motiyani

Free Crochet Pattern: Springtime Floral Candle Mat


Flowers!

FREE Assorted Leaves and Flowers by Articles of a Domestic Goddess

Picture

FREE Picot Flower by Homemade Hats by Cheryl


Toys

FREE Crochet Pattern: UNI-CORN Amigurumi

Free Mermaid Amigurumi Pattern

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A Designers Potpourri Crochet-A-Long pattern release!

 

PicMonkey Collage 3

UPDATE: COUPON CODE HAS BEEN RELEASED IN FB GROUP! CAL IS IN PROGRESS! HAVE FUN, LADIES!

I am pleased to present to you the All My Heart Headband! This pattern is a release from Articles of a Domestic Goddess for the Designer’s Potpourri Crochet-A-Long. If you are not a part of this wonderful group, but want to have some fun creating items with like-minded ladies, then please feel free to request to join! There are mini releases every Monday in January, followed by monthly releases by the designers participating on the 1st of each month. I am honored to be part of this crochet along because these are some really talented ladies and I have a feeling some really gorgeous, fun patterns are going to come out of this! So if you are a beginner hoping to learn or if you’re a seasoned crocheter, come check us out!

Request to join our Facebook group by clicking here!

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Set to release Monday, January 18th, is my headband design!

The All My Heart Headband is sized to fit sizes NB, 0-3 months, 3-6 months, 6-9 months, 9-12 months, Toddler – 1-3years, Child – 3-10 years, Teen to small adult – 10 years to small women’s, and Large adult – typically this is the men’s size, but sometimes can be large women’s size. Choose between fastening with a button on one end OR tying the headband with a ribbon. Both fashions are beautiful options. Choose to use the heart embellishment or it is beautiful without. The heart treble v stitch depicted here has a video walk through to help. But beginners should have no problem learning this stitch. Especially with the video. Video link included in the pattern.

Follow this link to the All My Heart Headband.

Please favorite it if you have a moment and enjoy!

On Monday, January 18th, 2016 I will share a Coupon Code in the

A Designer’s Potpourri Crochet-A-Long FB Group

 

PicMonkey Collage 4
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/all-my-heart-headband-nb-adult

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How to make a basic beanie for any size, using any stitch WITHOUT a pattern!

 

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Make a Beanie in ANY size, in ANY stitch WITHOUT a pattern!

Have a pattern for a basic beanie for a toddler but it uses single crochet, only you really want to save time and use double crochet? Have one for an adult, but you want to make it in another size using the same stitch? What about patterns that run small, or it’s for an adult size and you want to edit the pattern to suit your needs? This can be done easily and without fuss or worry!

I used to worry a lot when I was faced with something like this. I would frequently use two or three patterns to suit my needs if I knew a pattern ran small or if I wanted another stitch for a beanie. Hopefully after reading this blog you will no longer have this problem and you will be able to come back to this chart at any time and create whatever it is that you are looking to create without having to piece together 2 or 3 different patterns!


Gauge:

To begin, it would be best to have a basic understanding of gauge. This basically just means use the right size hook with the right size of yarn. To delve further into gauge you can read up here. But for this, basically, if you have a worsted weight, you will want to use anywhere from a G hook to a J hook depending on how fast you want to complete the beanie and which stitch you choose. If you choose double crochet then G or H might be better, and if you choose single crochet or half double crochet, then any size really will do. Thinner yarn = thinner hook. Thicker yarn = thicker hook. That’s basically what you need to know for this purpose though. To read more on which yarn or other commonly used materials you may need to obtain and their uses, read here.


The basic composition of a beanie

Basically, every hat or beanie begins with increases that will fit over the crown of the head. The circle will start in the middle and INCREASE until it gets to a certain width, and then you will begin to crochet evenly (one stitch in each stitch) all the way around the hat or beanie until the hat or beanie is the length that you wish. It really is that simple. But when do you stop increasing? How do you know how long it needs to be? How do you change the stitch?


Which stitch do I use?

First, pick which stitch you would like to use. Some people like single crochet because it looks more uniform and more finished, but the downside is that it will take longer. Some people like double crochet because it works up quickly. I like half double crochet because it is the best of both worlds. Some people really dislike half double crochet. It really is preference and no matter which stitch you use, you can EASILY create a beanie in the size you wish without much planning!


How many stitches do I start with?

You can start your beanie with any number of stitches. Some people use the magic circle technique. If you know how to use that technique then that is the best method, as it closes completely without having to sew the hole up. If you’re like me, any chance I get to NOT have to sew something up, I take it! If you have not perfected that method, you can always chain two and crochet your stitches into the first chain.

I start my beanies with 8 or 9 stitches. Mostly because I memorized the 9 times tables better in school. 🙂 It also starts out flatter up top because there are more stitches. Some people start theirs with 4 or even 6. (I think even numbers are more frequent, but only because people are ocd. If you want to start with 5, then by all means go with an odd number!) A beanie that starts with 4 or 6 will be more pointed up top. You may need to do a few before you know how many you prefer.


Join or work in spirals?

This is also preference. I like to join because, well, I’m lazy. I don’t have the luxury of constant concentration on something all the time because I have children. The downside to that, is that all my beanies will have a joining seam down the back of the hat. The plus side is, I don’t have to use a stitch marker. Honestly, I could use a stitch marker and not have to worry either. It’s just how I learned though. Either way you decide is fine. A beanie worked in spirals will not have a seam at all, anywhere on it. Which is ideal. I will write these instructions under the impression that we will be working with a join because I think that is a more common choice, but if you have decided to work with a spiral, just ignore where it says “join” and “work a turning chain”. If you need help deciding, or would like to know techniques, there is more information here.


How do I increase and when do I stop?

No matter WHICH stitch you decided on, this will remain the same. You will put X amount of X kind of stitches into a circle (magic circle or the 2 chain method) and then you will join OR place a stitch marker and just work in spirals. If you joined you will need to work a turning chain. You will need to decide on that as well. You can watch these videos on turning chains to help you to decide.

Then, complete the below instructions for the desired size until it is the diameter specified in the chart below.

You may not need all the rounds listed below for your size, but they are available should you need them. Each size increases to a different width. You will increase in this fashion until the circle’s diameter (that’s measured across the widest increment across the center from the left side to the right) equals what is below in the “Diameter” column for the size that you are creating. This goes for any hat, no matter which stitch you are using to make the hat. If you’re feeling really adventurous you could mix them up! Do one round in single crochet, one in double crochet, then back post half double crochet all the way around and repeat! This makes a BEAUTIFUL beanie that gives the impression that you followed a very extravagant pattern. It really is your choice!

sizing blog hat artofadg

So if you are creating a toddler beanie, you will increase until the circle is 6 – 6.25 inches across.

Round1:                                                              <turning chain if applicable>

                                                                                  X stitches worked into a beginning round,

                                                                                  <join if applicable>

 

Round 2 :                                                             <turning chain if applicable>

                                                                                  2 stitches worked into EACH stitch,

                                                                                  <join if applicable>

 

Round 3 :                                                             <turning chain if applicable>

                                                                                  (2 stitches in the first stitch, 1 stitch in the second),

                                                                                  Repeat () around, <join if applicable>

 

Round 4 :                                                             <turning chain if applicable>

                                                                                  (2 stitches in the first stitch, 1 stitch in the next 2 sts),

                                                                                  Repeat () around, <join if applicable>

 

Round 5 :                                                             <turning chain if applicable>

                                                                                  (2 stitches in the first stitch, 1 stitch in the next 3 sts),

                                                                                  Repeat () around, <join if applicable>

 

Round 6 :                                                             <turning chain if applicable>

                                                                                  (2 stitches in the first stitch, 1 stitch in the next 4 sts),

                                                                                  Repeat () around, <join if applicable>

 

Round 7 :                                                             <turning chain if applicable>

                                                                                  (2 stitches in the first stitch, 1 stitch in the next 5 sts),

                                                                                  Repeat () around, <join if applicable>

 

Round 8 :                                                             <turning chain if applicable>

                                                                                  (2 stitches in the first stitch, 1 stitch in the next 6 sts),

                                                                                  Repeat () around, <join if applicable>

 

Round 9 :                                                             <turning chain if applicable>

                                                                                  (2 stitches in the first stitch, 1 stitch in the next 7 sts),

                                                                                  Repeat () around, <join if applicable>

 

Round 10 :                                                             <turning chain if applicable>

                                                                                  (2 stitches in the first stitch, 1 stitch in the next 8 sts),

                                                                                  Repeat () around, <join if applicable>

 

Round 11 :                                                             <turning chain if applicable>

                                                                                  (2 stitches in the first stitch, 1 stitch in the next 9 sts),

                                                                                  Repeat () around, <join if applicable>

 

Round 12                                                            <turning chain if applicable>

                                                                                  (2 stitches in the first stitch, 1 stitch in the next 10 sts),

                                                                                  Repeat () around, <join if applicable>

This is 9 double crochet in a magic circle with a chain 2 turning chain that does not count as the first stitch in the round. I used red heart worsted weight with an H hook. As you can see, it is about 4 inches, which would be the perfect amount of increases for a Newborn size beanie. The basic pattern for this would look like this: Round 1: Ch 2, 9dc in magic circle, join (9) Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, join (18) Round 3: Ch 2, (2dc, dc), Repeat () around, join (27) Round 4: Ch 2, (2dc, dc2), Repeat () around, join (36)

This is 9 double crochet in a magic circle with a chain 2 turning chain that does not count as the first stitch in the round. I used red heart worsted weight with an H hook. As you can see, it is about 4 inches, which would be the perfect amount of increases for a Newborn size beanie. 

The basic pattern for this would look like this:
Round 1: Ch 2, 9dc in magic circle, join (9)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, join (18)
Round 3: Ch 2, (2dc, dc), Repeat () around, join (27)
Round 4: Ch 2, (2dc, dc2), Repeat () around, join (36)

For more information on crochet abbreviations see here: http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/crochet.html

 


How long do I make my beanie?

After you’ve created a circle with the diameter listed in the chart above for the desired size of hat you’re making, you will begin to make only ONE stitch in EACH stitch with NO increases all the way around. Super simple right!? But how long do you go to make it look right? After a few rounds you should be able to easily lay the beanie down and measure a length. Just work rounds until the beanie measures what it says in the “height” column above for your desired size. Here you can mix and match too just as before! Any combination of stitches as long as they meet the length requirement will do!

When you’re finished and you have the hat the length you want it, you may want to do a finishing round of single crochet around if you used half double crochet or double crochet. It just gives beanies a nice, finished appearance.


Congratulations! You should be able to create a beanie now, using ANY size and ANY stitch with no pattern required!


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