Simple Charity Big Baby Hat (3-6 and 6-12)

 

fdaSGSimple Charity Big Baby Hat

 

Materials:

I Hook

Preferred Yarn: Hobby Lobby I love this yarn!

 

(I have also used Caron Simply Soft with an I hook to meet gauge. I find that softer yarns are better suited for charity donations as they are more complimentary to soft skin types like babies, but I have met gauge with Red Heart Super Saver and Caron One Pound with an H hook as well)

 

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Measuring tape (to check gauge)

 

Skill level: Beginner

1 Craft Yarn Council - Beginner Definition

 

Gauge:

With I hook:

2’’ x 2’’ square = 7 hdc x 5 rows

 

 

A Note about Gauge: For those of you who do not understand how gauge works, or are looking to learn more on the subject, I have written a very helpful blog on gauge that has proved helpful when trying to figure out how big/small of a hook/yarn to use. If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can.  http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/05/matching-gauge-and-why-it-is-so-important/

 

A Note about Technique (The Golden Loop Method): This is not just for amigurumi items; it will help in ALL areas where crochet is involved. (Although, it helps most with amigurumi because of the nature of tight stitching.) I know I often hear of people having trouble “making their stitches tight enough” or they frequently have problems matching gauge (even if their items turn out okay on sizing, it doesn’t necessarily mean there isn’t improvement to be made.) I too had many problems when learning to create amigurumi objects when I first started out. I have written a helpful blog that should help to pinpoint the areas that need improvement so that you, too, can create beautiful amigurumi items. There is ALWAYS room for improvements to be made, no matter how long you have been crocheting. Later, you will notice that all items are improved by using this easy method! If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can. http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/04/amigurimi-technique-that-will-always-work-and-will-change-the-way-you-crochet-forever/

 

Abbreviations:                     (NOTE THAT NOT ALL ABBREVIATIONS WILL BE USED IN THIS PATTERN)

 

MC – Magic Circle                            For a tutorial on the magic circle, visit my blog at the following link:

http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/magic-circle-tutorial/

CH – Chain

ST; STS – Stitch or stitches

SC – Single Crochet

SC2TOG – Single Crochet 2 together

HDC – Half Double Crochet

HDC2TOG – Half Double Crochet 2 together

DC – Double Crochet

DC2TOG- Double Crochet 2 together

TR – Treble Crochet

SLST – Slip Stitch

FO – Fasten Off

X after a number = number of stitches to work in after current stitch (ex: sc 2X = sc in next two stitches)

 

Tips:  Ch 1, Ch 2, or Ch 3 turning chain at the beginning of the round does not count as first stitch. First stitch in the round will be in the same stitch as the turning chain.

 

 

 

Age Head Circumference Height
3-6 Months 14-16 inches 6 inches
6-12 Months 16-18 inches 6.5 inches

 


Hat Start:

With I Hook for ILTY or CSS (Or h hook for Red Heart or Caron One Pound)

 

Round 1:                                Ch 1, 9 hdc in mc, join to top of first hdc (9)

Round 2:                                Ch 1, (2 hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (18)

Round 3:                                Ch 1, (hdc, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (27)

Round 4:                                Ch 1, (hdc 2X, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (36)

 

SEE DESIRED SIZE BELOW

 

(Please take a look at sizing chart above to determine what size to make.)

 

 

3-6 months:

Round 5:                Ch 1, (hdc 3X, 2hdc),  Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (45)

Round 6 :               Ch 1, hdc in each st around, join to top of first hdc (45)

 

FOR A FLUSH HAT WITH NO FOLDED BRIM AT THE BOTTOM:

3-6 Months: Repeat Round 6 until hat reaches 6 inches from top to bottom and FO. (approximately 18 rounds)

 

FOR A HAT WITH A FOLDED BRIM AT THE BOTTOM:  (Like Pictured)

3-6 Months: Repeat Round 6 until hat reaches 6.5 inches from top to bottom and FO. (approximately 20 rounds)

 

6-12 months:

Round 5:                Ch 1, (hdc 3X, 2hdc),  Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (45)

Round 6:                Ch 1, (hdc 8X, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (50)

Round 7:                Ch 1, hdc in each hdc, join to top of first hdc (50)

 

FOR A FLUSH HAT WITH NO FOLDED BRIM AT THE BOTTOM:

6-12 Months: Repeat Round 7 until hat reaches 6.5 inches from top to bottom and FO. (approximately 20 rounds)

 

FOR A HAT WITH A FOLDED BRIM AT THE BOTTOM:  (Like Pictured)

6-12 Months: Repeat Round 7 until hat reaches 7 inches from top to bottom and FO. (approximately 22 rounds)

 

Sc around one round.

If hat has folded brim, fold up the sc round and the last 3 rounds of hdc.

You can sew this to the hat or leave it be. It should stay put pretty well.

 

 

Bow:

Ch 25, join.

Rounds 1-4:                          Ch 1, hdc around, Join (25)

For center ring:                    Ch 7 around center of Bow Center and join. Sew to hat.

Print this entry

Simple Charity Teen to Large Adult Hat

 

PicMonkey ImageclSimple Charity Teen/Adult Hat

Materials:

I Hook

Preferred Yarn: Hobby Lobby I love this yarn!

 

(I have also used Caron Simply Soft with an I hook to meet gauge. I find that softer yarns are better suited for charity donations as they are more complimentary to soft skin types like babies, but I have met gauge with Red Heart Super Saver and Caron One Pound with an H hook as well)

 

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Measuring tape (to check gauge)

 

Skill level: Beginner

1 Craft Yarn Council - Beginner Definition

 

Gauge:

With I hook:

2’’ x 2’’ square = 7 hdc x 5 rows

 

 

A Note about Gauge: For those of you who do not understand how gauge works, or are looking to learn more on the subject, I have written a very helpful blog on gauge that has proved helpful when trying to figure out how big/small of a hook/yarn to use. If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can.  http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/05/matching-gauge-and-why-it-is-so-important/

 

A Note about Technique (The Golden Loop Method): This is not just for amigurumi items; it will help in ALL areas where crochet is involved. (Although, it helps most with amigurumi because of the nature of tight stitching.) I know I often hear of people having trouble “making their stitches tight enough” or they frequently have problems matching gauge (even if their items turn out okay on sizing, it doesn’t necessarily mean there isn’t improvement to be made.) I too had many problems when learning to create amigurumi objects when I first started out. I have written a helpful blog that should help to pinpoint the areas that need improvement so that you, too, can create beautiful amigurumi items. There is ALWAYS room for improvements to be made, no matter how long you have been crocheting. Later, you will notice that all items are improved by using this easy method! If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can. http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/04/amigurimi-technique-that-will-always-work-and-will-change-the-way-you-crochet-forever/

 

Abbreviations:                     (NOTE THAT NOT ALL ABBREVIATIONS WILL BE USED IN THIS PATTERN)

 

MC – Magic Circle                            For a tutorial on the magic circle, visit my blog at the following link:

http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/magic-circle-tutorial/

CH – Chain

ST; STS – Stitch or stitches

SC – Single Crochet

SC2TOG – Single Crochet 2 together

HDC – Half Double Crochet

HDC2TOG – Half Double Crochet 2 together

DC – Double Crochet

DC2TOG- Double Crochet 2 together

TR – Treble Crochet

SLST – Slip Stitch

FO – Fasten Off

X after a number = number of stitches to work in after current stitch (ex: sc 2X = sc in next two stitches)

 

Tips:  Ch 1, Ch 2, or Ch 3 turning chain at the beginning of the round does not count as first stitch. First stitch in the round will be in the same stitch as the turning chain.

 

 

 

Age Head Circumference Height
Teen/Small Adult 21-22 inches 8 inches
Large Adult 22-24 inches 9 inches

 


Hat Start:

With I Hook for ILTY or CSS (Or h hook for Red Heart or Caron One Pound)

 

Round 1:                                Ch 1, 9 hdc in mc, join to top of first hdc (9)

Round 2:                                Ch 1, (2 hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (18)

Round 3:                                Ch 1, (hdc, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (27)

Round 4:                                Ch 1, (hdc 2X, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (36)

 

SEE DESIRED SIZE BELOW

 

(Please take a look at sizing chart above to determine what size to make.)

 

 

Teen – Small Adult:

Round 5:                Ch 1, (hdc 3X, 2hdc),  Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (45)

Round 6:                Ch 1, (hdc 4X, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (54)

Round 7:                Ch 1, (hdc 5X, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (63)

Round 8:                Ch 1, hdc in each hdc, join to top of first hdc (63)

 

FOR A FLUSH HAT WITH NO FOLDED BRIM AT THE BOTTOM:

Teen/Small Adult: Repeat Round 8 until hat reaches 8 inches from top to bottom and FO. (approximately 25 rounds)

 

FOR A HAT WITH A FOLDED BRIM AT THE BOTTOM:  (Like Pictured)

Teen/Small Adult: Repeat Round 8 until hat reaches 9 inches from top to bottom and FO. (approximately 27 rounds)

 

Large Adult:

Round 5:                Ch 1, (hdc 3X, 2hdc),  Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (45)

Round 6:                Ch 1, (hdc 4X, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (54)

Round 7:                Ch 1, (hdc 5X, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (63)

Round 8:                Ch 1, (hdc 6X, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (72)

Round 9 :               Ch 1, hdc in each hdc, join to top of first hdc (72)

 

FOR A FLUSH HAT WITH NO FOLDED BRIM AT THE BOTTOM:

Large Adult: Repeat Round 9 until hat reaches 9 inches from top to bottom and FO. (approximately 27 rounds)

 

FOR A HAT WITH A FOLDED BRIM AT THE BOTTOM:  (Like Pictured)

Large Adult: Repeat Round 9 until hat reaches 10 inches from top to bottom and FO. (approximately 30 rounds)

 

 

 

 

Sc around one round.

If hat has folded brim, fold up the sc round and the last 3 rounds of hdc.

You can sew this to the hat or leave it be. It should stay put pretty well.

 

Bow:

Ch 35, join.

Rounds 1-6:                          Ch 1, hdc around, Join (35)

For center ring:                    Ch 9 around center of Bow Center and join. Sew to hat.

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Summer Getaway Bottle Cozies

 

vadgea

Summer Getaway Bottle/Cup Cozies

 

Two sizes offered. One that will fit a coffee cup, large bottle or wine bottle;

and another that will fit a beer bottle, wine cooler bottle or water bottle.

You should have no problem finding a use for this pattern 🙂

 

Materials:

H Hook

Preferred Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Measuring tape (to check gauge)

 

Skill level: Beginner

1 Craft Yarn Council - Beginner Definition

 

 

 

Gauge:

With H hook:

2’’ x 2’’ square = 7 dc x 3 rows

 

 

A Note about Gauge: For those of you who do not understand how gauge works, or are looking to learn more on the subject, I have written a very helpful blog on gauge that has proved helpful when trying to figure out how big/small of a hook/yarn to use. If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can.  http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/05/matching-gauge-and-why-it-is-so-important/

 

A Note about Technique (The Golden Loop Method): This is not just for amigurumi items; it will help in ALL areas where crochet is involved. (Although, it helps most with amigurumi because of the nature of tight stitching.) I know I often hear of people having trouble “making their stitches tight enough” or they frequently have problems matching gauge (even if their items turn out okay on sizing, it doesn’t necessarily mean there isn’t improvement to be made.) I too had many problems when learning to create amigurumi objects when I first started out. I have written a helpful blog that should help to pinpoint the areas that need improvement so that you, too, can create beautiful amigurumi items. There is ALWAYS room for improvements to be made, no matter how long you have been crocheting. Later, you will notice that all items are improved by using this easy method! If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can. http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/04/amigurimi-technique-that-will-always-work-and-will-change-the-way-you-crochet-forever/

 

Abbreviations:                     (NOTE THAT NOT ALL ABBREVIATIONS WILL BE USED IN THIS PATTERN)

 

MC – Magic Circle                            For a tutorial on the magic circle, visit my blog at the following link:

http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/magic-circle-tutorial/

CH – Chain

ST; STS – Stitch or stitches

SC – Single Crochet

SC2TOG – Single Crochet 2 together

HDC – Half Double Crochet

HDC2TOG – Half Double Crochet 2 together

DC – Double Crochet

DC2TOG- Double Crochet 2 together

TR – Treble Crochet

SLST – Slip Stitch

FO – Fasten Off

X after a number = number of stitches to work in after current stitch (ex: sc 2X = sc in next two stitches)

 

Tips:  Ch 1, Ch 2, or Ch 3 turning chain at the beginning of the round does not count as first stitch. First stitch in the round will be in the same stitch as the turning chain.

 

new

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cup Cozy Pattern:

In Tan:
Ch 36, join (36)

Round 1:              Ch 1, hdc around, join (36)

                Color change to white

Round 2:              Ch1, sc around, join (36)

                Color change to dark purple

Round 3:              Ch1 (sc, hdc, dc in next 2, hdc, sc), Rpt () around, join (36)

                Color change to white

Round 4:              Ch1, sc around, join (36)

                Color change to seafoam green

Round 5:              Ch2, (dc, hdc, sc in next 2, hdc, dc), Rpt () around, join (36)

                Color change to white

Round 6:              Ch1, sc around, join (36)

                Color change to light purple

Round 7:              Rpt round 3

                Color change to white

Round 8:              Ch1, sc around, join (36)

Color change to dark purple and rpt rounds 3-8

Color change to tan, Ch1, hdc around, join (36)

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Bottle Cozy Pattern:

In Tan:
Ch 24, join (24)

Round 1:              Ch 1, hdc around, join (24)

                Color change to white

Round 2:              Ch1, sc around, join (24)

                Color change to dark purple

Round 3:              Ch1 (sc, hdc, dc in next 2, hdc, sc), Rpt () around, join (24)

                Color change to white

Round 4:              Ch1, sc around, join (24)

                Color change to seafoam green

Round 5:              Ch2, (dc, hdc, sc in next 2, hdc, dc), Rpt () around, join (24)

                Color change to white

Round 6:              Ch1, sc around, join (24)

                Color change to light purple

Round 7:              Rpt round 3

                Color change to white

Round 8:              Ch1, sc around, join (24)

Color change to dark purple and rpt rounds 3-8

Color change to tan, Ch1, hdc around, join (24)

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Simple Charity NB Booties

 

PicMonkey Collage1Simple Charity Newborn Booties

Free pattern for simple newborn booties! Works up in about 20 minutes. Super quick, super simple.

Change colors and buttons around for a plethora of different outcomes! Good for boys or girls.

 

Materials:

H hook

Preferred Yarn: Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn

(Caron Simply Soft would be comparable.)

(To Sub Red Heart Super Saver or Caron One Pound, go down a hook size)

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Measuring tape (to check gauge)

(2) 5/8 buttons

 

  Skill level: Beginner

 

Gauge:

With H hook:

2’’ x 2’’ square = 7dc x 3rows

 

 

A Note about Gauge: For those of you who do not understand how gauge works, or are looking to learn more on the subject, I have written a very helpful blog on gauge that has proved helpful when trying to figure out how big/small of a hook/yarn to use. If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can.  http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/05/matching-gauge-and-why-it-is-so-important/

 

A Note about Technique (The Golden Loop Method): This is not just for amigurumi items; it will help in ALL areas where crochet is involved. (Although, it helps most with amigurumi because of the nature of tight stitching.) I know I often hear of people having trouble “making their stitches tight enough” or they frequently have problems matching gauge (even if their items turn out okay on sizing, it doesn’t necessarily mean there isn’t improvement to be made.) I too had many problems when learning to create amigurumi objects when I first started out. I have written a helpful blog that should help to pinpoint the areas that need improvement so that you, too, can create beautiful amigurumi items. There is ALWAYS room for improvements to be made, no matter how long you have been crocheting. Later, you will notice that all items are improved by using this easy method! If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can. http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/04/amigurimi-technique-that-will-always-work-and-will-change-the-way-you-crochet-forever/

 

Abbreviations:                     (NOTE THAT NOT ALL ABBREVIATIONS WILL BE USED IN THIS PATTERN)

 

MC – Magic Circle                            For a tutorial on the magic circle, visit my blog at the following link:

http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/magic-circle-tutorial/

CH – Chain

ST; STS – Stitch or stitches

SC – Single Crochet

SC2TOG – Single Crochet 2 together

HDC – Half Double Crochet

HDC2TOG – Half Double Crochet 2 together

DC – Double Crochet

DC2TOG- Double Crochet 2 together

TR – Treble Crochet

SLST – Slip Stitch

FO – Fasten Off

X after a number = number of stitches to work in after current stitch (ex: sc 2X = sc in next two stitches)

 

Tips:  Ch 1, Ch 2, or Ch 3 turning chain at the beginning of the round does not count as first stitch. First stitch in the round will be in the same stitch as the turning chain.

 

 

 

Here is a video walk through on how to pick up third loops on a hdc stitch. You will need to do this for only row 3 of the heel area.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEDVgAhhtpU   

 

 

 

Bootie:

Round 1:              Ch1, 8hdc in mc, Join (8)

Round 2:              Ch1, 2hdc in each around, join (16)

Round 3-7:          Ch1, hdc in each around, join (16)

Then we begin working in rows. To do this we will drop some stitches.

Row 1:                  Ch1, hdc in next 12 sts, turn (12)

Row 2:                  Ch1, hdc in next 12 sts, turn (12)

Pick up third loops for row 3 only.

Row 3:                  Ch1, hdc in next 12 sts, turn (12)

Row 4:                  Ch1, hdc in next 12 sts, turn (12)

Flip bootie inside out and sl st up ends to seam the bootie. FO

With contrasting color: Sl st in at any st in opening and sc around.

Skip corner sts to pull it together in those areas. FO

 

Strap:

Row 1:                  Ch3, hdc in last 2 sts, turn (2)

Row 2-7:              Ch1, hdc in next 2 sts, turn (2)

Row 8:                  Ch3, sl st in last st, turn (1 ch3 buttonhole)

Row 9:                  Ch1, hdc in ch3, ch1, sl st in same st as ch3 from last round.

FO

With contrasting color: Starting at one corner, sl st around. (Do not crochet across flat foundation edge.)

FO

Sew strap to bootie

 

Add a 5/8 button in button hole area attached to shoe.

Print this entry

Simple Charity Toddler/Child Hat

 

PicMonkey Collage2

Simple Charity Toddler/Child Hat

This pattern is for the Toddler/Child size only. For NB and 0-3 sizes, see here. The 3-6 and 6-12 size and the Teen/Small Adult and Large Adult Patterns will be coming soon!

Materials:

I Hook

Preferred Yarn: Hobby Lobby I love this yarn!

(I have also used Caron Simply Soft with an I hook to meet gauge. I find that softer yarns are better suited for charity donations as they are more complimentary to soft skin types like babies, but I have met gauge with Red Heart Super Saver and Caron One Pound with an H hook as well)

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Measuring tape (to check gauge)

 

Skill level: Beginner

Gauge:

With I hook:

2’’ x 2’’ square = 7 hdc x 5 rows

 

A Note about Gauge: For those of you who do not understand how gauge works, or are looking to learn more on the subject, I have written a very helpful blog on gauge that has proved helpful when trying to figure out how big/small of a hook/yarn to use. If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can.  http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/05/matching-gauge-and-why-it-is-so-important/

 

A Note about Technique (The Golden Loop Method): This is not just for amigurumi items; it will help in ALL areas where crochet is involved. (Although, it helps most with amigurumi because of the nature of tight stitching.) I know I often hear of people having trouble “making their stitches tight enough” or they frequently have problems matching gauge (even if their items turn out okay on sizing, it doesn’t necessarily mean there isn’t improvement to be made.) I too had many problems when learning to create amigurumi objects when I first started out. I have written a helpful blog that should help to pinpoint the areas that need improvement so that you, too, can create beautiful amigurumi items. There is ALWAYS room for improvements to be made, no matter how long you have been crocheting. Later, you will notice that all items are improved by using this easy method! If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can. http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/04/amigurimi-technique-that-will-always-work-and-will-change-the-way-you-crochet-forever/

 

Abbreviations:                     (NOTE THAT NOT ALL ABBREVIATIONS WILL BE USED IN THIS PATTERN)

 

MC – Magic Circle                            For a tutorial on the magic circle, visit my blog at the following link:

http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/magic-circle-tutorial/

CH – Chain

ST; STS – Stitch or stitches

SC – Single Crochet

SC2TOG – Single Crochet 2 together

HDC – Half Double Crochet

HDC2TOG – Half Double Crochet 2 together

DC – Double Crochet

DC2TOG- Double Crochet 2 together

TR – Treble Crochet

SLST – Slip Stitch

FO – Fasten Off

X after a number = number of stitches to work in after current stitch (ex: sc 2X = sc in next two stitches)

 

Tips:  Ch 1, Ch 2, or Ch 3 turning chain at the beginning of the round does not count as first stitch. First stitch in the round will be in the same stitch as the turning chain.

 

 

Age Head Circumference Height
Toddler 17-20 inches 6.5-7 inches
Child 18-21 inches 7.5 inches

 


Hat Start:

With I Hook for ILTY or CSS (Or h hook for Red Heart or Caron Super Saver)

 

Round 1:                Ch 1, 9 hdc in mc, join to top of first hdc (9)

Round 2:                Ch 1, (2 hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (18)

Round 3:                Ch 1, (hdc, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (27)

Round 4:                Ch 1, (hdc 2X, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (36)

 

SEE DESIRED SIZE BELOW

 

(Please take a look at sizing chart above to determine what size to make.)

 

 

Toddler:

Round 5:               Ch 1, (hdc 3X, 2hdc),  Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (45)

Round 6:                Ch 1, (hdc 4X, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (54)

Round 7:                Ch 1, hdc in each hdc, join to top of first hdc (54)

 

FOR A FLUSH HAT WITH NO FOLDED BRIM AT THE BOTTOM:

Toddler: Repeat Round 7 until hat reaches 7 inches from top to bottom and FO. (approximately 22 rounds)

 

FOR A HAT WITH A FOLDED BRIM AT THE BOTTOM:  (Like Pictured)

Toddler: Repeat Round 7 until hat reaches 8 inches from top to bottom and FO. (approximately 25 rounds)

 

 

Child:

Round 5:                Ch 1, (hdc 3X, 2hdc),  Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (45)

Round 6:                Ch 1, (hdc 4X, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (54)

Round 7:                Ch 1, (hdc 17X, 2hdc), Repeat () around, join to top of first hdc (57)

Round 8:                Ch 1, hdc in each hdc, join to top of first hdc (57)

 

FOR A FLUSH HAT WITH NO FOLDED BRIM AT THE BOTTOM:

Child: Repeat Round 8 until hat reaches 7.5 from top to bottom and FO. (approximately 23 rounds)

 

FOR A HAT WITH A FOLDED BRIM AT THE BOTTOM:  (Like Pictured)

Child: Repeat Round 8 until hat reaches 8.5 from top to bottom and FO. (approximately 26 rounds)

 

Sc around one round.

If hat has folded brim, fold up the sc round and the last 3 rounds of hdc.

You can sew this to the hat or leave it be. It should stay put pretty well.

 

 

Bow:

Ch 30, join.

Rounds 1-5:                          Ch 1, hdc around, Join (30)

For center ring:                    Ch 8 around center of Bow Center and join. Sew to hat.

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Cosmopolitan 6 Inch Granny Square

 

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Cosmopolitan 6 Inch Granny Square

 

Materials:

K Hook

Preferred Yarn: Hobby Lobby I love this yarn

(I am usually able to meet gauge easily with Caron Simply Soft – To use Caron Super Saver or Red Heart Super Saver, go down to a J hook to try and meet gauge.)

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Measuring tape (to check gauge)

 

Skill level: Beginner

1 Craft Yarn Council - Beginner Definition

 

 

Gauge:

With K hook:

2’’ x 2’’ square = 6 dc x 3 rows

 

A Note about Gauge: For those of you who do not understand how gauge works, or are looking to learn more on the subject, I have written a very helpful blog on gauge that has proved helpful when trying to figure out how big/small of a hook/yarn to use. If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can.  http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/05/matching-gauge-and-why-it-is-so-important/

 

A Note about Technique (The Golden Loop Method): This is not just for amigurumi items; it will help in ALL areas where crochet is involved. (Although, it helps most with amigurumi because of the nature of tight stitching.) I know I often hear of people having trouble “making their stitches tight enough” or they frequently have problems matching gauge (even if their items turn out okay on sizing, it doesn’t necessarily mean there isn’t improvement to be made.) I too had many problems when learning to create amigurumi objects when I first started out. I have written a helpful blog that should help to pinpoint the areas that need improvement so that you, too, can create beautiful amigurumi items. There is ALWAYS room for improvements to be made, no matter how long you have been crocheting. Later, you will notice that all items are improved by using this easy method! If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can. http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/04/amigurimi-technique-that-will-always-work-and-will-change-the-way-you-crochet-forever/

ABBREVIATIONS

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tips:  THIS IS ONE OF THE ONLY PATTERNS YOU WILL SEE FROM ME IN WHICH THE CH 3 AT THE BEGINNING OF A DC ROUND DOES IN FACT COUNT AS THE FIRST STITCH IN THE ROUND. PLEASE TAKE NOTE OF THIS!

 

HOWEVER, THE CH1 FOR THE SC AND HDC EDGING DOES NOT COUNT AS THE FIRST ST. SO YOU WILL CH1, AND SC OR HDC IN THE SAME STITCH AS YOU COMPLETED THE CHAIN 1.

 


With K hook and Dark Pink.

Ch 5, join to form a circle.

 

Round 1:              Ch 3 (Counts as first st here and throughout pattern) 2dc in circle, ch2,

(3dc, ch 2), RPT () 2 more times, and join to top of chain 3.

St count: [(4) ch2 sp corners and (4) 3dc sides)

1This is what it should look like up until here.

2Then sl st in next 2 dc sts with dark pink.

3

To color change for the next round: Begin to sl st in ch 2 by inserting your hook into the ch 2 sp and complete the sl st with white by pulling up white yarn when you pull your hook back through the ch 2 sp and through. This allows you to color change almost seamlessly.

To weave in ends: Cut Dark Pink yarn about 2 to 3 inches long at the back of the work to make sure you have enough room to weave in ends. Make sure to leave about 2 to 3 inches at the beginning of the white yarn as well. (So at each yarn beginning, and each yarn end, you should have about 2 to 3 inches of unused yarn to weave in so that the work does not unravel – tying a knot or just crocheting over ends may unravel at some point. To weave in ends so that they will never unravel, see this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xiFwSwRF01Q)

 

Round 2:              Ch 3, 2dc in ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in ch 2 sp, ch2,

([3dc, ch 2, 3dc] in ch2 sp, ch2), RPT () 2 more times, and join to top of chain 3.

St count: [(4)-(3dc, ch2, 3dc) corners and (4) ch2 sides]

4

Then sl st in next 2 dc sts with dark pink.

Color change to Light Pink in ch 2 sp corner the same as you did in round 1, making sure to leave

both beginning and end yarn ends 2-3 inches long so that you can weave in ends properly.

 

Round 3:              Ch 3, 2dc in ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in ch 2 sp, ch2, 3dc in side ch 2 sp, ch2,

([3dc, ch 2, 3dc] in ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in side ch 2 sp, ch2),

RPT () 2 more times and join to top of chain 3.

St count: [(4)-(3dc, ch2, 3dc) corners and (4)-(ch2, 3dc, ch2) sides]

 

Then sl st in next 2 dc sts with light pink.

DO NOT Color change – Continue on with Light Pink.

 

Round 4:              Ch 1, 3sc in corner ch 2 sp, (sc in each dc, 3sc in each ch 2 sp),

Rpt () around, join to top of first sc st

(Make sure not to join to the ch 1, but the actual first sc st)

Then begin a sl st in next sc st and finish the sl st with Dark Brown to color change.

 

Round 5:              Ch 1, (3hdc in corner st, hdc in every st down side),

Rpt () around, join to top of first hdc st.

(Make sure not to join to the ch 1, but the actual first hdc st)

Then begin a sl st in next hdc st and finish the sl st with Light Brown to color change.

 

Round 6:              Ch 1, (3sc in corner st, sc in every st down side),

Rpt () around, join to top of first sc st.

(Make sure not to join to the ch 1, but the actual first sc st)

Finish off Light Brown.

Weave in all ends using the technique described in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xiFwSwRF01Q

You have successfully completed a 6 inch granny square!

 

 

**If for some reason you would like an 8 inch square, simply complete one more round between rounds 3 and 4 in another color,

and continue on to round 4 with the same color so that it transitions nicely from color to color.

 


If you just want to complete a blanket composed of ONLY granny squares,

here are some layouts for some various sizes:

 

Baby size = 36”x36” (Each square is 6” by 6”)

Create 36 squares. Lay them out 6 rows by 6 columns.

Use Mattress Stitch Tutorial to Seam them together. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzl7IpgTtXQ

Put a sc edge around all the squares in light brown, making sure to make 3sc in each corner.

Then use a blanket edging to edge it! There are many out there. These are just a few!  http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/08/5-crochet-edges-you-should-know/

BABY

 

Toddler size = 42”x52” (Each square is 6” by 6”, the closest you can get is 42”x54”)

Create 63 squares. Lay them out 9 rows by 7 columns.

Use Mattress Stitch Tutorial to Seam them together. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzl7IpgTtXQ

Put a sc edge around all the squares in light brown, making sure to make 3sc in each corner.

Then use a blanket edging to edge it! There are many out there. These are just a few!  http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/08/5-crochet-edges-you-should-know/

TODDLER

 

Throw size = 52”x60” (Each square is 6” by 6”, the closest you can get is 54”x60”)

Create 90 squares. Lay them out 10 rows by 9 columns.

Use Mattress Stitch Tutorial to Seam them together. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzl7IpgTtXQ

Put a sc edge around all the squares in light brown, making sure to make 3sc in each corner.

Then use a blanket edging to edge it! There are many out there. These are just a few!  http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/08/5-crochet-edges-you-should-know/

THROW

 

Twin size = 59”x85” (Each square is 6” by 6”, the closest you can get is 60”x84”)

Create 140 squares. Lay them out 14 rows by 10 columns.

Use Mattress Stitch Tutorial to Seam them together. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzl7IpgTtXQ

Put a sc edge around all the squares in light brown, making sure to make 3sc in each corner.

Then use a blanket edging to edge it! There are many out there. These are just a few!  http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/08/5-crochet-edges-you-should-know/

TWIN

 

Full/Queen size = 90”x90” (Each square is 6” by 6”, you can perfectly create a 90”x90” blanket)

Create 225 squares. Lay them out 15 rows by 15 columns.

Use Mattress Stitch Tutorial to Seam them together. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzl7IpgTtXQ

Put a sc edge around all the squares in light brown, making sure to make 3sc in each corner.

Then use a blanket edging to edge it! There are many out there. These are just a few!  http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/08/5-crochet-edges-you-should-know/

FULL QUEEN

 

Super Queen size = 96”x94” (Each square is 6” by 6”, the closest you can get is 96”x96”)

Create 256 squares. Lay them out 16 rows by 16 columns.

Use Mattress Stitch Tutorial to Seam them together. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzl7IpgTtXQ

Put a sc edge around all the squares in light brown, making sure to make 3sc in each corner.

Then use a blanket edging to edge it! There are many out there. These are just a few!  http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/08/5-crochet-edges-you-should-know/

SUPER QUEEN

 

King size = 108”x90” (Each square is 6” by 6”, you can perfectly create a 108”x90” blanket) Create 270 squares. Lay them out 15 rows by 18 columns.

Use Mattress Stitch Tutorial to Seam them together. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzl7IpgTtXQ

Put a sc edge around all the squares in light brown, making sure to make 3sc in each corner.

Then use a blanket edging to edge it! There are many out there. These are just a few!  http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/08/5-crochet-edges-you-should-know/

KING

 

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Key Lanyards for Teacher or Nurse

 

PicMonkey Collage 321

Key Lanyards for Teacher or Nurse

 

Materials:

H Hook

Preferred Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Measuring tape (to check gauge)

Key Chain Ring

Key Clip

Pearl for flower center if desired

 

Skill level: Beginner

1 Craft Yarn Council - Beginner Definition

 

 

Gauge:

With H hook:

2’’ x 2’’ square = 7hdc by 5 rows

 

A Note about Gauge: For those of you who do not understand how gauge works, or are looking to learn more on the subject, I have written a very helpful blog on gauge that has proved helpful when trying to figure out how big/small of a hook/yarn to use. If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can.  http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/05/matching-gauge-and-why-it-is-so-important/

 

A Note about Technique (The Golden Loop Method): This is not just for amigurumi items; it will help in ALL areas where crochet is involved. (Although, it helps most with amigurumi because of the nature of tight stitching.) I know I often hear of people having trouble “making their stitches tight enough” or they frequently have problems matching gauge (even if their items turn out okay on sizing, it doesn’t necessarily mean there isn’t improvement to be made.) I too had many problems when learning to create amigurumi objects when I first started out. I have written a helpful blog that should help to pinpoint the areas that need improvement so that you, too, can create beautiful amigurumi items. There is ALWAYS room for improvements to be made, no matter how long you have been crocheting. Later, you will notice that all items are improved by using this easy method! If you still need help after you’ve browsed this, please let me know and I will try to help in any way that I can. http://articlesofadomesticgoddess.com/2014/04/amigurimi-technique-that-will-always-work-and-will-change-the-way-you-crochet-forever/

ABBREVIATIONS

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tips:  Ch 1, Ch 2, or Ch 3 turning chain at the beginning of the round does not count as first stitch. First stitch in the round will be in the same stitch as the turning chain.

 

 

PICK UP THIRD LOOPS OF HDC FOR ENTIRE PATTERN.

(This makes the lanyard more sturdy, so that it can hold more weight.

You may also just do a regular hdc if you feel more comfortable doing that and it will work.)

 

If you are unsure how to pick up 3rd loops in hdc, see this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEDVgAhhtpU

 

Neck Length:

Insert hook and yarn into circle of key chain ring. 3sc in circle, turn

 

Row 1-100:                        Ch 1, hdc in each across, turn (3)

 

FO and fold like picture and then sew to back of first row.

 

You may also sl st to attach back across last row if you don’t want to finish off.

 

Whichever you decide to do, make sure it is attached to through the 1st row of sc.

This was written for an average sized woman. (Should fit comfortably around a woman’s neck who has a 22 inch head) You may want to add more rows for larger women or men. Remember, it must fit over their head and you want it not to be tight around the neck. It is better to be longer than too short!

 

Wrist Length:

Insert hook and yarn into circle of key chain ring. 3sc in circle, turn

 

Row 1-30:                          Ch 1, hdc in each across, turn (3)

 

FO and fold like picture and then sew to back of first row.

 

You may also sl st to attach back across last row if you don’t want to finish off.

 

Whichever you decide to do, make sure it is attached to through the 1st row of sc.

 

This was written for an average sized woman. (Should fit comfortably around a woman’s wrist who has a 7 inch wrist) You may want to add more rows for larger women or men. Remember, it must fit over their hand and you want it not to be tight around the wrist. It is better to be longer than too short!

 

Contrasting edging:

Sl st in circle with contrasting color, then sl st into side of lanyard and sc around

(Do this on both sides of lanyard)

 

 

Large Flower for neck lanyard:

With light color

Round 1:             6sc in mc, join (6)

Color change to dark contrasting color in join

Round 2:             Ch 1, (sc, ch2), RPT () around, join to first sc (6 ch2 sps)

Sl st into next ch 2 sp

Round 3:             (Ch2, 3dc, ch2, sl st into next ch 2 sp), RPT () around (6 petals)

 

Sew pearl to center and attach to lanyard.

 

 

Small Flower for wrist lanyard:

With light color

Round 1:             5sc in mc, join (5)

Color change to dark contrasting color in join

Round 2:             Ch 1, (sc, ch1), RPT () around, join to first sc (5 ch1 sps)

Sl st into next ch 2 sp

Round 3:             (Ch1, 2dc, ch1, sl st into same ch 1 sp, sl st into next ch 1 sp), RPT () around

(5 petals)

 

Sew pearl to center and attach to lanyard.

 

 

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